Risotto alla Pilota

History & Background

A dish of the Mantovan flatlands, of the Bassa and Polesine. The 'absorption' cooking without a ladle is a legacy of the 'piloti' — rice mill workers who prepared it right on site. Codified between the 1700s and 1800s, one of the rare Italian risottos that isn't stirred.

Ingredients for 4

• 320g Vialone Nano rice
• 200g crumbled Mantovan salamella
• 600ml lightly salted boiling water
• 60g cold butter
• 80g grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• Salt, pepper

Method

1. Render the crumbled salamella in a heavy pan without added fat; reserve, keeping the fond.
2. Pour rice into the fond and toast 2 min, stirring.
3. Pour boiling water in one shot (double the rice volume plus a finger).
4. Cover and cook on low for 12–14 min without stirring.
5. Open and check: rice should have absorbed all the water.
6. Manteca off heat with cold butter, the salamella and Parmigiano.
7. Cover and rest 2 min.
8. Serve piping hot.

Wine pairing

Dry Lambrusco Mantovano or Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese.

Common mistakes

• Stirring during cooking (breaks grain and snatches the technique).
• Using Carnaroli (this dish wants Vialone Nano).
• Lean salamella (lacks flavour).